June 23, 2011 Paris
The waxed-cotton storm jacket, the red mac (in pleather, not oilcloth), and the plaid lined parka had the element of primary-colored surprise that captivates Junya's cult time after time. So did the tech jackets in orange, khaki, and sky blue that topped chambray overalls. He's a great colorist: His tricolor desert boots with Tricker's will stand out next spring.
Junya's presentations always defy the conventional fashion show momentum, which dictates a build to some kind of dressy climax. But for once, this show actually got darker and dressier as it drew to a close. There were still the overalls, but now they were black—and paired with white shirts. There was also a brass-buttoned blazer as polished as bespoke, bar the fact it was patchworked from denim. Though Junya will never give an inch when he's queried about his motivations backstage, you can imagine that that is the kind of garment that most tickles his fancy.