Libertine
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2011
By Maya Singer
Libertine designer Johnson Hartig likes to subvert expectations. At a fashion show, the expectation is that you're going to see stony-faced models stomping apace down the runway; at tonight's Libertine presentation, the models grinned, skipped, hugged each other, carried drinks on the catwalk, and pretty much looked like they were having a ball. It was a nice change of pace.The attitude suited the new Libertine collection, inasmuch as its organizing principle seemed to be Hartig's manic zeal for screen-printing things: A-line coats, a sequin suit, clutch bags, underpants. Unlike Libertine's Fall 2011 outing, which boasted lots of dazzling color, this collection hewed to black and white, though the vintage influence was still strong. Screens of circles, jagged stripes, and Marimekko-esque florals were applied to a wide variety of women's vintage clothes, ranging in date from the twenties to the seventies. The men's looks were signature Libertine, almost all of them a version of the designer's favored long/short boxy-jacket suit silhouette. Hartig did have one definite winner at the show: a T-shirt printed simply with the request, "Tax the Rich More."
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
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