Moncler Gamme Bleu
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 19, 2011
By Dirk Standen
At the end of her show today, a reporter said to Miuccia Prada, "Golf, who knew?" "Yes," Prada replied, "But golf as an excuse for craziness." Thom Browne could probably relate. Sports as an excuse for craziness could serve as the credo for the collections the American designs for Moncler Gamme Bleu. Each season he manages to wring the maximum amount of enjoyment out of a different athletic endeavor. Today it was fencing's turn. The show was set in a real club with trophies and photos of fencers lining the walls, though the giant, fluorescent sci-fi lights had been imported just for the occasion. The connection between a fencer's padding and Moncler's skiwear heritage is a fairly obvious one, but surely only Browne could make the link between his swordsmen's garb and the storm troopers in Star Wars. To the tune of the movie's "Imperial March," his masked corps filed out and lined up against the back wall of the club. The designer then had his usual fun with uniforms, sending out such Browne-isms as a plaid codpiece, tricolor Speedos, and little pleated white skirts for men.This was all good entertainment, but what makes Browne's collaborations with Moncler so fruitful is that his themes also throw up so many wearable yet newly animated pieces. Today those included a zip-front bomber in a navy mesh fabric with white trim, a smart gold-buttoned pea jacket, a crisp white military jacket, and terrific suede or mesh slip-ons in navy or white with contrasting soles. In this show, Browne's wit and his clothes were both rapier-sharp.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
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