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Michael Kors

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NEW YORK, September 14, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Michael Kors claimed his inspiration came from Africa this season. The show notes called it "Afriluxe," an unfortunate bit of marketing speak given the famine crisis in Somalia. But the designer didn't make that misstep with his clothes. This is, after all, territory Kors has explored before. He demonstrated a mostly sure hand today, synthesizing animal prints, hand-dyeing techniques, djellabas, and accessories like crocodile-strap cross-body bags and gladiator sandals that climbed almost to the knee with the easy American sportswear that he owns no matter what the season.

Cashmeres, his familiar one-shoulder dresses, sporty swimsuits—this collection had many of the Kors signatures. Only this time around, the sweaters came holey, as if they'd been stuffed into the bottom of a rucksack (OK, maybe better to leave them in there); an asymmetrical dress was woven and fringed by hand; and the tank suits were accessorized with utilitarian belt bags. Morocco? Montauk? A green and red tie-dyed cover-up will look just as right on the sands of either place. But if his gals will take a pass on a scrappy patchwork sweater and skirt, they won't need to book a trip to the Lebombo Lodge, which he mentioned in his program, to want to scoop up his suede jumpsuits, camp shirts, and wrap skirts.

Sarongs might be a tougher sell with the Michael Kors man, but there were other pieces that delivered the look in less obvious doses: long, dip-dyed scarves, slouchy cargos, ropy sweaters, and washed leather jackets.

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