Moschino
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 20, 2011
By Dirk Standen
Some designers have been channeling English rock gods in Milan, but Moschino went straight to the Big Kahuna, America's own Elvis Presley. Prints are a house signature, and Rossella Jardini really wanted to push them for men for Spring. The King gave her design team the license they needed to explore that notion.From fifties Elvis came a rockabilly's cardigan emblazoned with playing card symbols, a recurring motif, as well as a double-breasted, gold-buttoned blazer with the sleeves and ribbed collar of a varsity jacket, a typical Moschino juxtaposition. A military jacket reflected Presley's brief stint in the army. His Blue Hawaii period yielded blue- or pink-on-brown hibiscus prints on jackets, shirts, and pants. Vegas Elvis was represented by, among other things, a cotton gabardine jacket covered in trompe l'oeil spotlights.
Combining the squire of Graceland with Moschino's ever present exuberance might sound like a recipe for excess, but Jardini and co. mostly succeeded in keeping things light and playful. "It's one of the few times we've had to tone down an inspiration," joked menswear designer Bill Shapiro.
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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