Roland Mouret Mr.
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, June 26, 2011
By Tim Blanks
Roland Mouret, erstwhile connoisseur of London's seamiest side, has moved to the country, where he now takes tea with the local vicar and enjoys a game of croquet on the lawn. But he described his latest collection as inspired by "the beauty of the danger of certain men in the city." We've all been there with urban unpredictability—is that fellow lurching toward us down a darkened street a saint or a psycho? Mouret eased the answer by attaching his collection to two visual totems: David Bowie in his Berlin phase and Robert Mitchum in Cape Fear. In practical terms, that meant tailoring with slightly exaggerated forties-ish proportions, following on from Mouret's Fall offering. Jacket shoulders were broad, waists were suppressed, trousers were baggy, with deep inverted pleats. It was a silhouette that made for an attractive male complement to Mouret's movie star-ready womenswear.And, as much as he aces that look for women, Mouret is also a big fan of the style influences that make a man a man: sport, business, the army. Again, the military subtext had a slight period flavor—perhaps the French in Southeast Asia? One of the highlights of the show was a chocolate safari jacket, paired with taupe-y shorts and a gray silk polo. The same jacket also appeared in white (with blue shorts) and in black leather, where it looked like the kind of thing T.E. Lawrence might have worn for his last fatal motorbike ride. Such echoes of male icons past reflect Mouret's ongoing fascination with Real Men. Here, he imagined someone who was confident enough in his masculinity to take on a slightly feminine detail like the little sailor collar on a knit top or a cashmere twinset in mint green. Even in that, Robert Mitchum would still be able to put the fear of God into you on a dark night.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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