N.Hoolywood
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 9, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
N.Hoolywood's Daisuke Obana is possessed of a cinematic imagination, which in the past he's turned toward twenties vagrants (Spring 2011) and thirties mountaineers (Fall 2011). So it made a kind of sense that for Spring 2012 he turned to Saul Bass, the graphic designer turned cinema auteur, for inspiration. Bass' genre was the movie title sequence; it's a somewhat narrow purview, but he elevated it to an art form, creating some of the medium's greatest efforts in the fifties, sixties, and beyond, for directors like Otto Preminger, Alfred Hitchcock, and Martin Scorsese. You could spend a very profitable YouTube afternoon watching his reels. There's no doubt Obana has.The off-kilter lines Bass used in The Man With the Golden Arm became the taped details on polos, sweatshirts, and coats. The eerie eye of Vertigo was screened onto jean jackets, tees, and shirts. Psycho, West Side Story, Anatomy of a Murder and Ocean's Eleven all got their nods, whether in literal borrowings or thematic winks. (A section of quiffed, Shark-y greasers recalled West Side Story, for example.)
The hazard of emulating an artist of the miniature—Bass' sequences were usually less than five minutes long—is that your homage can wind up a bit shrunken, too. The presentation, fully and fabulously realized as it was (Obana showed in a theater, in front of his own doctored version of Bass' sequences with a jazzy score), couldn't quite jazz up the essential basic-ness of the collection. The titles on-screen, Obana-fied, came out witty and weird: "Ethel Mermaid! Sad Caesar!" they promised. A little more of that oddity would've been welcome in the clothes. All worship and no play makes Sad a Sid boy.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
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