Nicholas K
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 8, 2011
By Maya Singer
Nicholas K designer Nicholas Kunz likes to layer. Hers is a tectonic approach to dressing, one that expresses a loose, appealing energy when it works but comes off heavy, chaotic, and over-considered when it doesn't. Today, as is usual at Nicholas K shows, there was a desire to see more of the pieces clean, in order to assess how they do when they stand alone. That said, it's to Kunz's credit that for all the layers, her new collection had a winning lightness.The show kicked off with looks for men and women in tonal whites, and it made for a strong start. For women, the opening asymmetric jacket in lightweight, foil-printed suede was a definite winner, and the loose draped and tiered bias-cut dresses felt timely and struck a pleasing, ethereal-yet-earthy tone. (If Daisy Buchanan ever went camping, that's what she'd have worn.) As the exits continued, the tones darkened, moving into sand-colored clothing, then lodens and grays, and finally into black.
Throughout, Kunz layered looks over cropped mesh leggings—a nice idea—and sent out various lightweight iterations of the trenchcoats and anoraks that are a staple of her brand. She also showed long suede shorts that had a strong, masculine look, and made good use of print, creating several patterns abstracted from photographs of jellyfish and landscapes. For men, Kunz played to her strengths this season, which made for a collection that had lots of retail appeal, but not much in the way of news. One excellent idea, executed in a variety of materials but done best in a crisp cotton poplin, was a kind of cropped track pant, slouchy with an elasticized cuff.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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