September 10, 2011 New York
That much is always evident in the restraint and precision of his tailored pieces, as it was today in jackets that were tuxedo-formal or cadet-sharp. Even trousers with elasticized cuffs that might otherwise configure as track pants were military-precise. But the confidence of maturity has allowed Ervell to fully exercise a wayward streak, which was evident in hand-painted silk pieces that were floridly Hawaiian-Gothic. It's that whole shadows-in-the-sunshine, worm-in-the-optimistic-apple mood that the most interesting contemporary American designers manage to evoke.
This season, Ervell also widened his repertoire to include womenswear, for the most prosaic of reasons. "They're a significant customer base," he said. The fact that he didn't simply transpose his menswear ideas was further evidence of his evolution as a designer. Somewhere between a navy leather T-shirt and a sleeveless jumpsuit in red silk crepe, a whole new business was taking shape.