Robert Geller
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NEW YORK, September 10, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
To take it from the top—those hats. The wide-brimmed, slightly floppy fedoras that crowned Robert Geller's Spring 2012 looks couldn't but put you in a David Bowie state of mind: the coke-y, elegant Bowie of the seventies when, coincidence or no, the man was spending plenty of time in Geller's native Germany. (These wobbly hats have had an odd little resurgence in men's of late—they've turned up at Dior and Lanvin in recent seasons, too.)But, despite hints here and there in a few pieces that followed, this wasn't a Bowie-ish collection through and through. It was too sporty for that, Geller being a longtime adherent of the long short; the baggy, pleated carrot trouser (here with a paper-bag waist); and the slub sweatshirt. The mesh tanks he introduced as layering pieces played up the theme.
It didn't feel Bowie, in other words, because it felt very Geller—a redux of recent successes. And perhaps it's a timely one, too. Geller carried off the CFDA's Swarovski Award for menswear this year, and Spring marks his tenth collection for his own label. What's next? That's the question. Look to those hats, though, and you begin to wonder whether Geller hasn't found a muse to carry him forward into a more tailored, more mature place. Don't you wonder sometimes 'bout sound and vision?
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne Adam Kimmel Agnès B. Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Plokhov Alexis Mabille Ami Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Azzuolo -
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Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Bespoken Billy Reid Bottega Veneta Buckler Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Canali Carven Christophe Lemaire Christopher Kane Comme des Garçons Costume National Custo Barcelona -
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D&G Damir Doma Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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E. Tautz Elie Tahari Emporio Armani Ermenegildo Zegna Etro -
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Gant by Michael Bastian Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Henrik Vibskov Hermès -
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Iceberg Issey Miyake -
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J.Crew J.W. Anderson James Long Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano John Richmond John Varvatos Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenzo Kris Van Assche -
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Lacoste Lanvin Libertine Loden Dager Louis Vuitton -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marc Jacobs Marni Michael Bastian Michael Kors Miharayasuhiro Missoni Moncler Gamme Bleu Moschino Mugler -
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N.Hoolywood Neil Barrett Nicholas K -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Piombo Ports 1961 Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Raf Simons Rag & Bone Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Robert Geller Roberto Cavalli Rogan Roland Mouret Mr. -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Simon Spurr Steven Alan -
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Thom Browne Tim Hamilton Timo Weiland Tommy Hilfiger Trussardi -
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Umit Benan -
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Valentino Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood -
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Walter Van Beirendonck Woolrich Woolen Mills -
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Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Zegna
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