To take it from the top—those hats. The wide-brimmed, slightly floppy fedoras that crowned Robert Geller's Spring 2012 looks couldn't but put you in a David Bowie state of mind: the coke-y, elegant Bowie of the seventies when, coincidence or no, the man was spending plenty of time in Geller's native Germany. (These wobbly hats have had an odd little resurgence in men's of late—they've turned up at Dior and Lanvin in recent seasons, too.)

But, despite hints here and there in a few pieces that followed, this wasn't a Bowie-ish collection through and through. It was too sporty for that, Geller being a longtime adherent of the long short; the baggy, pleated carrot trouser (here with a paper-bag waist); and the slub sweatshirt. The mesh tanks he introduced as layering pieces played up the theme.

It didn't feel Bowie, in other words, because it felt very Geller—a redux of recent successes. And perhaps it's a timely one, too. Geller carried off the CFDA's Swarovski Award for menswear this year, and Spring marks his tenth collection for his own label. What's next? That's the question. Look to those hats, though, and you begin to wonder whether Geller hasn't found a muse to carry him forward into a more tailored, more mature place. Don't you wonder sometimes 'bout sound and vision?