Timo Weiland
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 11, 2011
By Bee-Shyuan Chang
Summer may have flown by in a heartbeat, but Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein channeled all its beachy, optimistic lightness. As with seasons past, the twosome was again thinking of a fantastical trip. "It's Basquiat goes to Hawaii, goes surfing, and invites all his cool downtown city girls as guests," Weiland explained backstage before the show. Aside from their building out the imaginary story line, it was a season of firsts for the design duo. After several presentations, they made the leap to the runway. "It was about movement," Weiland said. "It was time to go bigger," Eckstein added.The idea of movement was explored in charming, unexpected ways. For women, skirts in layered silk chiffon ran below the knee but flew open in the front to reveal a shorter skirt. It was a pretty effect, especially in floral digital prints—another first, also used for the designers' debut shoe collaboration with Tsubo. One maxi dress was practically an illusionist's feat; it featured a sheer, green, iridescent printed top layer that barely revealed the motion of the model's legs as she strutted down the catwalk.
There were other interesting textiles, too, such as a fuchsia and orange bubble brocade and sheer metallic striped raffia. With different weights and thicknesses, they didn't always jibe in combination, and worked better alone in sparer cuts, like a trim classic blazer.
Menswear was colorful, though more toned-down. Eckstein and Weiland debuted a collaboration with the Strokes' bass player, Nikolai Fraiture, on several looks, including a pared-down baseball jacket in striped chambray. Other pieces were fun tweaks on classic Hawaiian surfer wear. A short-sleeve button-down shirt sported a nouveau flower print, and board shorts came in sea blue color-block. For the city guy who dreams of the beach (or being Basquiat), there were successful dressier options, too, like a handsome mustard trench that read more downtown hip than Hawaiian casual.
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Spring 2012 Menswear
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