September 10, 2011 New York
The idea of movement was explored in charming, unexpected ways. For women, skirts in layered silk chiffon ran below the knee but flew open in the front to reveal a shorter skirt. It was a pretty effect, especially in floral digital prints—another first, also used for the designers' debut shoe collaboration with Tsubo. One maxi dress was practically an illusionist's feat; it featured a sheer, green, iridescent printed top layer that barely revealed the motion of the model's legs as she strutted down the catwalk.
There were other interesting textiles, too, such as a fuchsia and orange bubble brocade and sheer metallic striped raffia. With different weights and thicknesses, they didn't always jibe in combination, and worked better alone in sparer cuts, like a trim classic blazer.
Menswear was colorful, though more toned-down. Eckstein and Weiland debuted a collaboration with the Strokes' bass player, Nikolai Fraiture, on several looks, including a pared-down baseball jacket in striped chambray. Other pieces were fun tweaks on classic Hawaiian surfer wear. A short-sleeve button-down shirt sported a nouveau flower print, and board shorts came in sea blue color-block. For the city guy who dreams of the beach (or being Basquiat), there were successful dressier options, too, like a handsome mustard trench that read more downtown hip than Hawaiian casual.