September 21, 2011 Milan
Or was D'Amato saying something about flowers? There were plenty of those, too, as an oversize sepia-tone print on a dress with an asymmetrical neckline and hem or embroidered in ombré 3-D rosettes on tops and skirts. The designer threw in a Lanvin moment as well, in the form of a pair of thigh-skimming dresses with exaggerated volume at the shoulder, one of which was suspended from a heavy-duty chain necklace. One thing that united the whole, sort of, was the vibrant jewel-tone palette. Sapphire blues and bronzes looked bold.
D'Amato has made inroads with American retailers in the recent past. Last season, he made a play for the working woman with tweedy dresses and separates. But aside from that brief ode to Alber Elbaz, this collection felt untethered from the desires of the modern shopper.