Albino
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 22, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Albino D'Amato seemed to struggle over what story to tell for Spring. Was it about sports, as his first look—a jacket cropped below the bust and turned backward so it zipped up the back (worn over fitted shorts and a flaring techno-mesh skirt)—seemed to suggest? The mesh made multiple reappearances, mostly as a futuristic sort of crinoline under flaring, retro-fifties ballroom skirts.Or was D'Amato saying something about flowers? There were plenty of those, too, as an oversize sepia-tone print on a dress with an asymmetrical neckline and hem or embroidered in ombré 3-D rosettes on tops and skirts. The designer threw in a Lanvin moment as well, in the form of a pair of thigh-skimming dresses with exaggerated volume at the shoulder, one of which was suspended from a heavy-duty chain necklace. One thing that united the whole, sort of, was the vibrant jewel-tone palette. Sapphire blues and bronzes looked bold.
D'Amato has made inroads with American retailers in the recent past. Last season, he made a play for the working woman with tweedy dresses and separates. But aside from that brief ode to Alber Elbaz, this collection felt untethered from the desires of the modern shopper.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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