Aquascutum
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 20, 2011
By Tim Blanks
In fashion, context counts in large amounts. For today's Aquascutum show, Joanna Sykes surrounded herself with a supercool crew: Vanessa Reid styling, Lucia Pieroni and Paul Hanlon on makeup and hair, the universally adored Dan Lywood and Ben Bridgewater on the decks. Not a bad way to make a break with a past that, as Sykes said, was all about menswear. By way of contrast, she claimed she wanted to do something "extremely precious and fragile, feminine and delicate." Funny, then, that the show partially played out as a fetching debate on the boy/girl thing that constantly ebbs and flows around fashion. So a dramatically slit column in dandelion yellow georgette followed a tweedy pantsuit that wouldn't look amiss on Oliver Twist. And the same tweed made a biker that preceded a black satin-and-lace lingerie jumpsuit.With this collection, Sykes followed Stella, Phoebe, and Hannah to become the latest example of a special London phenom: designing women who match form to function in an instinctive, sensual, real way. You can tell by the generous way all of them cut a pair of women's trousers. Sykes referred to Aquascutum's 150 years of masculine heritage with a tailcoat (paired with pedal pushers), because, she said, she liked the fact the item was originally designed with a purpose. For the same reason, she laminated her silk georgette, because "that took something delicate and made it functional."
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
Uniqueness United Bamboo -
V
-
W
Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
