Aquilano.Rimondi
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 25, 2011
By Tim Blanks
The art of creating clothes is usually most enthralling when it's most obsessive, and Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi's new collection was exactly that. To isolate just one item from a series of OCD wonders: an elegantly slender skirt, falling to just below the knee, lavished with large paillettes, each of them painstakingly hand-covered in a different shade of tulle. The skirt looked like it was bedecked with thousands of shells of all sizes, but its partner—a simple short-sleeve shirt in lilac oxford cloth—lent a young, fresh attitude that counterpointed the ornateness.And that was the mastery of the collection. If the connoisseurship apparent in the minute detailing of the clothes turned them into heirloom pieces, the craft never overwhelmed their essential lightness. This was underscored by the simple fact that everything closed in back with a single, easy zipper. The designers also chose silhouettes—either a short, high-waisted tulip shape, or that long, lean look to just below the knee—that offered the most straightforward canvases onto which they could project their ongoing celebration of Italian workmanship. This time, it was all about the Renaissance. The jacquard swirls of silver and gold that decorated silk ottoman jackets were inspired by architectural columns and capitals. When the same swirls were rendered in raffia and beads, they created extraordinary textures. It was the kind of stuff that rewarded touch, but at the same time, the gilded effects ravished the eye. The clothes looked like treasures—but not so precious that they couldn't elevate the everyday. Fashion's role in a nutshell.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
Uniqueness United Bamboo -
V
-
W
Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
