September 09, 2011 New York
Wang may sell at a contemporary price, but the way he evolves an idea has distinct designer finesse. He cycled easily through the collection's groups—or "gangs," as he called them. It was a jam-packed journey beginning with great dark laser-cut mesh bombers that revealed a dot matrix of bright polos layered beneath. These were followed by nylon cargo couture florals (peplums and pockets!), sexy race-car instarsia knits, and little body-con lasered leather minidresses. There's a real cleverness to the way Wang develops something like a fascination with mesh from the real deal into the grommets on a coat and a trompe l'oeil print on the sleeve of a cropped floral hoodie. And those tribal-looking motifs on the sheer jerseys that closed the show? Stadium seating maps.
More importantly, all Wang's ideas yielded a whole lot of great merch beyond the shoes (today a pointy, strappy nineties-ish pump) and bags. There was little you couldn't see hanging on a rack, walking down the street. And that's a good thing. Wang is opening his second flagship early next year in Beijing and plans to open seven more in Asia and Europe before year's end. The fast track chez Wang isn't just a motif.