Barbara Bui
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 29, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
On the face of it, Barbara Bui was ably ticking off the trends. Sporty? Check. Bold blocks of color? Check. Thirties drop-waists? Tribal motifs? Check and check. But her collection had its own crisp bounce. She cycled through all of the above and came up with a cohesive, commercial translation with pieces that garnered notice. Take the first look's jacket, made of thickly fringed leather—Bui called it "fur of leather"—that caused one oft-photographed young editor in the front row to lean over and express her stamp of approval. Elsewhere, Bui presented the unattainable brought within reach, like the creamy and crafty hand-knits and racing-cum-tuxedo-stripe trousers you saw on a major designer's runway last season, here made suddenly earthbound.As is her way, Bui had good merch for miles, like a leather mini-duffel that came in a still-wantable rainbow python. And you imagine Bui's youthful customer will go gaga over those boxy sweatshirts with Latin American-inspired embroidery, and the second-skin nylon boot-cut track pants with vents that open over strappy sandals. The aforementioned editor might want to consider adding those pants to her list, too; they'd be just the thing for running from the street-style paparazzi when the fun is done.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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