On the face of it, Barbara Bui was ably ticking off the trends. Sporty? Check. Bold blocks of color? Check. Thirties drop-waists? Tribal motifs? Check and check. But her collection had its own crisp bounce. She cycled through all of the above and came up with a cohesive, commercial translation with pieces that garnered notice. Take the first look's jacket, made of thickly fringed leather—Bui called it "fur of leather"—that caused one oft-photographed young editor in the front row to lean over and express her stamp of approval. Elsewhere, Bui presented the unattainable brought within reach, like the creamy and crafty hand-knits and racing-cum-tuxedo-stripe trousers you saw on a major designer's runway last season, here made suddenly earthbound.

As is her way, Bui had good merch for miles, like a leather mini-duffel that came in a still-wantable rainbow python. And you imagine Bui's youthful customer will go gaga over those boxy sweatshirts with Latin American-inspired embroidery, and the second-skin nylon boot-cut track pants with vents that open over strappy sandals. The aforementioned editor might want to consider adding those pants to her list, too; they'd be just the thing for running from the street-style paparazzi when the fun is done.