Blumarine
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 23, 2011
By Tim Blanks
Whoa there! Anna Molinari's show today began with sweet full-skirted sundresses, trimmed with raffia, strewn with drifts of summery mimosa. Versions in pure white followed, but then you could practically hear the designer saying, "Well, that's enough of that, then," because the next outfit down the catwalk was a tiny neoprene biker jacket matched to an even smaller pair of neoprene shorts in fluoro orange. After which the show surrendered any sense of restraint to a manic overload of flower power a-go-go. Restraint? Pah! That's old man talk. Molinari's woman was fresh out of the school of Modesty Blaise, the slinky minx who righted global wrongs in the sixties comic strip (she was played by Monica Vitti in the cult film version). Definitely shameless, possibly dangerous, the Blumariner flaunted her body not only in barely-there bandeaux and neoprene nothingnesses but in sheaths of patent and sequin, with forests of raffia and prickly overlays of 3-D flowers. The finale featured a black sequined two-piece wrapped in a fur coat. Ah yes, she was that kind of girl. Molinari took her bow in a fluoro orange smock with matching Uggs, clearly at one with her creations.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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