Barbara Tfank started out as a costume designer, so it's no big surprise she fell for Elizabeth Taylor, whose on-screen looks were always so perfectly executed. "It's like geometry," Tfank said during her presentation, explaining the importance of the emphasized shoulder and the nipped-in waist. So, in a winking tribute to Taylor and her magnificent décolletage, Tfank coiffed her models in Liz wigs and padded their bras ("it's hard to find models with a lot going on up top," she confided).

Beside the wigs, the Taylor references were sly. A long black V-neck dress covered in Pop Art blooms hinted at Warhol's iconic silk screen of the megastar. A column dress in gold worn with a corded belt had a whiff of Cleopatra, but only if you knew to look for it. Either way, it was stunning. The embroidery on a barely-flared blue and white pantsuit veered a little too close to couch territory, but another print of standalone flowers and petals on black palazzo pants looked fresh and flirty. Paired with a black cotton piqué bra top, it was the Tfank way of showing some skin: a little at a time, and nicely.

As Tfank courts a younger audience, she does so without alienating her existing fans. The opera coat that put her on the map a few seasons ago was back today with a slimmer cut, in muted taupe and gold brocade—perfect for cross-generational sharing.