October 19, 2011 Paris
This season, Haynes found her starting point in a serious material—a paper tweed in a bright coral and not quite fluorescent yellow, which she used both on its own, in casual pieces including a boyfriend jacket and kicky, pleated shorts, and as an accent in garments such as a tailored trenchcoat. Her digitized prints echoed the tweed's texture without reproducing it exactly—witness the nubby look of a long, printed chiffon skirt and matching top or the marbling on the gray organza cocktail dress with black underskirt. Print is the strength of this collection. Though a pair of wide gray trousers looked great, in general Haynes' solid-colored clothes didn't stand out the way her printed pieces do. She's also got a great eye for color, as witnessed by a cheerful minidress with contrasting panels of printed yellow and turquoise silk. The unavoidable word is cute. That's not an insult; Haynes does well by her youthful silhouettes. But she clearly possesses the design vocabulary to articulate a richer, more distinctive point of view. These are early days for her brand; give her time.