Guillaume Henry is the real thing: an upstart with a vision and the good fortune to have the support of a brand behind him. The crowds at his shows keep getting bigger, and he didn't disappoint the top-of-the-masthead types who turned up this morning at the Jeu de Paume. His latest collection is very much in keeping with the codes he's established for the house—bright, young, optimistic, and leggy. Carven dresses always come with a wink: a lace inset that zigzags underneath the neckline, cutouts below the bust, removable collars or dickeys. The tailoring is well done, but cheeky, too, particularly when it comes to those high-waisted shorts.

For Spring, Henry spun a folkloric tale. Leather harnesses on top of dresses or underneath jackets recalled lederhosen; colorful prints inspired by native embroideries appeared on baby dolls, shirtdresses, and a striking off-the-shoulder pleated look. Bells jangled on the heels of sandals. But other than that, the designer had a light touch, especially when it came to his evening numbers. Inès de la Fressange, who wore a draped goddess style from his Fall show at the Cannes film festival, will have a lot of competition for this season's effortless little confections in technical taffeta.