Carven
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 29, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Guillaume Henry is the real thing: an upstart with a vision and the good fortune to have the support of a brand behind him. The crowds at his shows keep getting bigger, and he didn't disappoint the top-of-the-masthead types who turned up this morning at the Jeu de Paume. His latest collection is very much in keeping with the codes he's established for the house—bright, young, optimistic, and leggy. Carven dresses always come with a wink: a lace inset that zigzags underneath the neckline, cutouts below the bust, removable collars or dickeys. The tailoring is well done, but cheeky, too, particularly when it comes to those high-waisted shorts.For Spring, Henry spun a folkloric tale. Leather harnesses on top of dresses or underneath jackets recalled lederhosen; colorful prints inspired by native embroideries appeared on baby dolls, shirtdresses, and a striking off-the-shoulder pleated look. Bells jangled on the heels of sandals. But other than that, the designer had a light touch, especially when it came to his evening numbers. Inès de la Fressange, who wore a draped goddess style from his Fall show at the Cannes film festival, will have a lot of competition for this season's effortless little confections in technical taffeta.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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