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Carolina Herrera

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NEW YORK, September 12, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Nicki Minaj made for an incongruous sighting at Carolina Herrera today, particularly sitting between two important editors in chief. But even beyond the rapper's unexpected, Muppet-like presence, there was a freshness to the proceedings at hand. That started with the spring-y colors, the yellows and greens that made you think of tulip leaves, and then a sweet but not saccharine little sparrow print. When the latter was cut into a cap-sleeve dress worn with sunglasses, a natty matching scarf, and a cherry red belt, it looked ready to hop on the back of a Vespa and tool around Rome. There were lots more options here with that kind of pared-back and easy feel. But even when she's sporty, the Herrera dame needs luxury. Cue the piped canvas trench in a gold-tinged khaki.

As a counterpoint to the organic, Herrera went geometric. The idea popped nicely in a trio of black and white dresses, and of course when the motif read Art Deco in bugle-beaded evening looks, it was a perfect fit. That wasn't the case with random, constructivist-style trims on skirts and dresses, however.

When it comes to evening, Herrera's ambitions can sometimes get the better of her, and there were a couple instances of that here. Trying to marry canary yellow jacquard silk with dotted chiffon and big panels of embroidery is just a case of attempting too much at one time. But mostly, the gala gowns had the simple elegance of one of Mrs. Herrera's white shirts, particularly a beaded tank worn over a fluttery chiffon—not quite Vespa-ready, but close.

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