Christophe Lemaire
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 4, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Chat with Christophe Lemaire about clothes and accessories for as little as ten minutes, and you'll understand why he was anointed Hermès' go-to guy. Lemaire has a total product wonk's eye for detail, and you quickly realize that his idea of luxury is design that merges functionality with style, and never traffics in ostentation. He'd rather find perfect proportions than a $1,000-a-yard silk.With his own line, the mathematics are Less = More. "Every season is about building a convertible wardrobe," he explained in a private appointment. "I want to get to a minimum of pieces that's kind of radical in its simplicity." Take his midi-length skirt—which comes in both Ultrasuede and cotton poplin—that lets you be as exposed as you want to be, and when unsnapped nearly all the way looks terrific over slim pants. "Neat and relaxed" is his self-imposed directive. It can't be an easy thing, making slouchy staples like his silk-cotton harem pants or long, cap-sleeve sweatshirt dress with a sense of refinement, but Lemaire has indeed hammered out his solutions. (Here's a hint: cut, cut, cut.)
Though his sensibility is loose, sportif, and quite crisp, it's not so severe as to be clinical. Even within his well-edited selection, Lemaire included a print—a vintage, almost tropical floral to which he ascribed slightly sinister qualities. "There's something strange about it," he said. But heck, there's a strangeness to Lemaire's whole ethos and manner, although, particularly in a season with an overdose of the exquisite, it's a refreshing way to see someone work.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
Uniqueness United Bamboo -
V
-
W
Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
