Commuun
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 27, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Commuun's Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate have a well established love for fabric play. For Spring, they did more experimenting in that direction. In the process, the designers uncovered a crisper side of their vocabulary, one that went beyond a sharp black one-button blazer, and another jacket in blush pink that was shown over a melon-colored button-down and full pants cut off at the knee.A cropped jacket cut from crinkly white patent for the body with black suede arms was the standout example of the duo's new streamlined aesthetic. There was also something compelling about a slightly oversize A-line T-shirt assembled from sheer white sleeves, a bird-print body, and a coppery band at the hem. The feathery motif was sweet, but it had shed some of the cuteness previously associated with the label. Geometry informed other prints, like an ombré blue-on-white square pattern on a streamlined shift, as well as the minimal, sometimes architectural lines of the clothes. Hori and Furudate did evening, maybe for the first time ever. The strapless black silk dress stopped well short of the knee, but the chiffon panels at the sides gave it a sense of drama. The designers are growing up, and their collection along with it.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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