Christopher Raeburn
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 16, 2011
By Maya Singer
There was a lot going on at Christopher Raeburn's presentation today. Raeburn presented his new collection at the Museum of London alongside a minute-long short film and an interactive installation of his new pieces; when you touched the clothes, they made a sound, and when all the clothes were being handled at once, it created a kind of abstract music.All of that activity made it easy to distract from the fact that Raeburn continues to impress as he expands his label. Though his emphasis is still on sharp-looking outerwear, Raeburn has stepped a toe into ready-to-wear, introducing jersey separates for men and women made from an organic hemp blend produced in England. These included long, heather tees slashed through with bolts of primary color and sharp-looking cargo sweats. There wasn't much to read into these pieces, design-wise, but Raeburn has a tendency to start new projects small and then build in ambition.
The outerwear is a case in point. Raeburn debuted as a designer with a few elegant parkas made out of upcycled parachute nylon. At this point, he's sourcing a lot of kinds of materials, always with an eye toward local manufacturers and sustainable textiles, and creating a wider array of silhouettes. By casting a wider net with his fabrics, Raeburn has given himself the freedom to do outerwear in a riot of colors, a fact punctuated by this season's standout look, a color-blocked anorak in a rainbow of hues.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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