Dennis Basso showed his Spring collection by appointment this season. Providing commentary next to a mini-runway in his Madison Avenue boutique, the designer revealed that he's saving the big show for October, when he debuts his first-ever bridal line. Woman cannot live on weddings alone, of course, so Basso's concise collection of cocktail and very special-occasion dresses—plus a socialite's ransom of furs—will fill in the gaps in the fête schedule.

With Grace Kelly and her Riviera cohorts on his mind, Basso went straight for the glamour. "Young women were dressed up la-di-da-da in those days," the designer said, by way of explanation, as the first look came out. A cropped patent-leather bomber—reflective as a mirror and cuffed with chinchilla—came perched atop a hand-embroidered organza pencil skirt. Hard and soft, modern and classic, it struck a chic balance. Hand-painted turkey feathers were flirty on a kicky satin chiffon frock; dripping down the hem of a drop-waist, floor-skimming gown, they were flat-out fabulous. Basso has made a concerted effort over the last few seasons to augment his decadent furs with cocktail attire worthy of wearing under them. He's found his groove. Brides, get ready.