Damir Doma's monkish phase may be over. His Spring collection had a warmer sensibility than his Fall lineup did—and not just because he relied so much on that gorgeous shade of burnished gold. There was still evidence that he was a menswear designer first; it came in the form of sweeping cloaks in washed silk or jackets tailored with cuffed shirtsleeves. One of the show's most memorable looks was a papery gold leather jacket edged in burnt plum, tossed over a long, draped navy dress.

It was the draping that was the surprise. Doma's focus on it gave the collection a classical, almost Grecian sensibility that was complemented by the long brass paillettes that decorated the necklines of dresses and the lapels of jackets. Strappy gladiator flats added to the picture, as did brass collier necklaces accentuated with pyrite or agate. The collection never inched into costume territory, though: Doma has been studying the way today's city girls like to wear layers—jacket, floaty top, slouchy shorts (in silk plissé or delicate lace); menswear blazer over a lace dress. In another positive development, Doma opted out of last season's strange, distracting hairnet headgear and black lipstick. His models glowed right along with the clothes.