September 27, 2011 Paris
It was the draping that was the surprise. Doma's focus on it gave the collection a classical, almost Grecian sensibility that was complemented by the long brass paillettes that decorated the necklines of dresses and the lapels of jackets. Strappy gladiator flats added to the picture, as did brass collier necklaces accentuated with pyrite or agate. The collection never inched into costume territory, though: Doma has been studying the way today's city girls like to wear layers—jacket, floaty top, slouchy shorts (in silk plissé or delicate lace); menswear blazer over a lace dress. In another positive development, Doma opted out of last season's strange, distracting hairnet headgear and black lipstick. His models glowed right along with the clothes.