Echoes of Shanghai in the thirties, which was this season's inspiration for Douglas Hannant, were subtle. "There will be no chinoiserie," the designer promised before the show. The tone was set by the styling and the venue, a room at the Plaza fashioned to look a bit like a Chinese speakeasy. The glamorous world Hannant envisioned should be accessible to his loyal clientele, and perhaps to some new customers, as well, when he opens a store in Shanghai later this year. How did it play out in the clothes? Raffia, a stand-in for bamboo, was an organic, more textural fabric than you usually see from Hannant. A black and tan off-the-shoulder dress in the material hewed close to the body and draped across the hip; it might have felt fussy in another finish, but here it was fresh and crisp. A few ballooning sleeves and one entire look in Lurex (featuring an ill-advised lavender camo print) could have been excised, but overall the sure-footed, sophisticated moments won out.