The message on the program at Diesel Black Gold
's Spring runway show was: "It's time to reflect." A giant mobile of silver panels hung at the end of the warehouse runway, bouncing the light off guests ranging from Gerard Butler and his date, Petra Nemcova, to Sarah Lerfel, Olivier Zahm, and the Roitfeld girls. As for the designer, Sophia Kokosalaki has been reflecting on Diesel. "I wanted to be honest to the brand," she said backstage after the show. "It always comes back to that." For Kokosalaki, that means utilitarian pieces that are a little high-tech. A photograph of mirrors was turned into a print and fused with leather; the resulting fabric looked a bit like a Hershey's Kiss wrapper. A pair of pants in the stuff were narrow to the ankle, where they cinched in with a drawstring and then flared out. While those are probably too shiny for everyday wear, the roomy blazer in pale pink it came with was casual and cool.
Men will have fewer silver flares and more solid outerwear options. A classic trench was well proportioned, and a leather vest worn over a blazer was fashion-forward without being too trendy. For women, the pants that will really sell are the boyfriend jeans. Rolled at the hem, they were a true baby blue, but they had a silver sheen when the light hit them—jeans you can see yourself in, but not actually see