You can take the boy out of California, but you can't take California out of the boy. Derek Lam, who grew up on the Left Coast, is prone to look back in that direction for inspiration. This season, in his program notes, he mentioned Richard Neutra's Kaufmann House in Palm Springs: "Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack crooning by the piano and Angie Dickinson lounging by a crystal-blue pool. Mid-century louche and luxury."

What does that mean for the clothes? This didn't look like some retro throwback collection. On the contrary, in trademark Lam fashion, it was brimming with timeless sportswear: special pieces like a white linen trench with glossy black leather trim and elbow patches, a future-vintage python pencil skirt in a patchworked medallion pattern, and an elongated brown leather blazer you'll keep forever. There were plenty of hardworking pieces too, like colorful, chunky rib-knit sweaters, and a great pair of navy silk tapering trousers with deep white cuffs. Locating it in the SoCal of the middle of the last century also made it look right for right now: very on-trend engineered prints with a resort-ready vibe. The holographic sequins on a pair of tank dresses also looked like fun. California, here we come.