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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 23, 2011
By Tim Blanks
A vivid image of the Jazz Age, that pre-Depression moment of unholy hedonism and drunken frolics, is hopped-up flappers plunging into the fountain outside the Plaza hotel in New York. Veronica Etro summoned up a new Jazz Age with her latest collection, and she came pretty close to conveying the unhinged waywardness of the original. What stood out instantly: no paisley! Or at least the signature family pattern was unrecognizably deconstructed into black-and-white Art Deco graphics, which appeared, for instance, in a kimono coat that would do a flapper proud. Another thing: The palette was sorbet, where once it would have been a symphony of primary colors.Etro adapted the work of the futurist artist Fortunato Depero for vivid patterns. The Chrysler Building reappeared again (it was a touchstone for Frida Giannini, too) in block-print geometry. But the spirit of the era was also pretty obvious in a Hollywood-worthy charmeuse column, with a fringed bed jacket. As the show climaxed, Sigrid Agren emerged in a gold torso-ed dress with a deep-V neckline and a skirt of lilac plissé. That dress, the saxes tootling frantically on the soundtrack, flappers in the fountain, all begs the question: After this wild party, can the crash be far behind?
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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