They may still love rock 'n' roll, but twins Daniela and Annette Felder have considerably softened their look in the past few seasons. Their Spring collection continued that work. With its frosty sherbet colors and flippy skater-skirt silhouettes, the Felders' brand of femininity has a prettiness to it. To retain an edge while toeing more commercial ground, they flirted with a near-dangerous level of sexiness. Some of that frisson was optional, like the models' slightly damp, back-combed hair and the skinny leather and gold-chain harnesses strapped around otherwise innocuous little chiffon dresses. But some—like the sheer webby knit and ice blue metallic leather mini—required a real commitment.

For toughening things up, the Felders turned to the slightly less-than-inspired idea of hardware in sharp gold studs and rows of long bugle beads that suggested armor or artillery. They used a light touch; it may not even register in pictures. You could understand the reasons behind using the stuff sparsely: Negotiating the line between commerce and statement can be tricky. But at times, you just wanted them to go for it. Sometimes, after all, it pays to let it fly.