Like any designer just a few seasons in, Graeme Armour has been fine-tuning his vision to make it work as a business. After taking a season to regroup in his home base of London, he returned to New York with some viable answers.

The good news is that Armour's got the vision thing down. From the beginning, his tough, noirish look has cycled through precise ideas of slicing into fabrics and excising garments to create intricate apronlike façades and layers.

Spring's game of peekaboo made its biggest statement on looks pieced with a shadowy tartan-textured lace. The effect was quite graphic and beautiful on a trompe l'oeil vest dress, and pants made almost entirely of the stuff with skinny panels of black wool running down the sides. A tough sell? Sure. But what also stood out here is how Armour can bring a fresh voice to commercial fare. Take the naughty triangles of flesh exposed in the waistband of his slouchy black pants, or the gorgeous flutter in the ribbons of white silk on the back of a halter top. Armour may love his leathers—the biker jackets here were sublime enough to make you forget it's Spring—but the McQueen alum has a clear talent for cutting in ho-hum wool and silk. The news here was also a first run at real color, a shock of pink snuck into the end of the show. Perhaps that's a harbinger of a rosy future.