Gianfranco Ferré
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 26, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi are out at Gianfranco Ferré, Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi are in. Being virtual unknowns won't help the cause of making Ferré relevant again. That said, the new duo do seem to have a firm grasp on the late designer's legacy. Citron and Piaggi had the white shirts with the requisite flourishes—a slice down the single sleeve on an asymmetric silk crepe blouse, a nearly backless scarf top tucked into one of the show's ubiquitous metal belts. Occasionally, their grand gestures got the better of them. That was certainly the case with Karlie Kloss' black silk sleeveless top, which looked like it required two extra sets of hands to get into it properly. Citron and Piaggi also have Ferré's eye for statement suits, although you have to think that the crisp, cropped jackets and high-waisted, pleated trousers would connect with more customers if they were in a color other than white.Are special blouses, sharp suits, and dresses draped from the neck and gathered in those metal belts enough to attract new fans to the label? Citron and Piaggi are skilled enough to deserve another chance, but there's been so much volatility at this brand lately that there's little assurance that they'll get one.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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