It seems counterintuitive to do an all-white collection when everyone else has gone bonkers for print and color, especially for Gregory Parkinson, who's built a cult fan base on a mastery of both. But his Spring presentation, with its milky, pure tonal palette, made absolute and rather beautiful sense.

The absence of color shed light on texture, and this was no minimal affair. In fact, Parkinson pronounced it his most worked collection to date. Each look was built up in layers of organza, crochet, georgette, silk voile, and lace mixed with humbler fare like crinkled cotton and the sheer jersey that gave many dresses their cool, skinny sleeves. "You just pull that dress on and go," the designer said of one look. "It's not precious." And yet it is. These embroideries don't come cheap: One corded lace rang in at 100 euros a yard. (If you are searching for the perfect beach wedding dress, look no further.)

But with his capsule Anthropologie collection coming in February, upping the ante on his main line feels right. After his time in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, the designer has a redoubled ambition to bring in new customers. The lower-priced collab should help, and so should this collection.