Helmut Lang
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Five years into their career at Helmut Lang, Nicole and Michael Colovos put their collection on the runway for the first time. Other designers in their situation might've felt obliged to add a few bells and whistles, but not this husband-and-wife team. They've built a real business on the consistency of their clothes' cool, urban vibe—lots of black, lots of leather, a sharply cut blazer for every slouchy T-shirt. And they didn't veer from the course with their solid Spring collection. The jackets were cropped and cut away high in back; the pants had the easy sensibility of sweats; the tees (and there were plenty of them) were asymmetric, drapey, and layered.For their prints, the Colovoses always riff on the work of a contemporary artist. This time it was Richard Serra. The oversize brushstrokes added the only note of color in the collection: sunshine yellow. The bra tops were something new (ditto the bared midriffs), but their customers will likely be happy to see them—try finding an edgy bra at Victoria's Secret. The closing looks, with their collages of sequins, leather cording, and embroideries, were a step in a crafty-couture direction the Colovoses hadn't explored before. But don't call them showpieces. "We'd never put something on the runway that we didn't believe in for sales," Michael said. Now that's a novelty.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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