Julien David
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 27, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Julien David returned to his home base of Tokyo last season a week after the tsunami, a sensitive moment to say the least. "The ground was shaking for a month and a half afterward," he explained backstage after his show. That cemented a collection concept that had been kicking around his head for a while—that of the big crunch. In short: It's the big bang in reverse, and yes, it means the end of the world.But David's collection wasn't apocalyptic. In fact, it had a springy, street-bound life to it. (To wit: The Webster's Laure Heriard Dubreuil, who currently stocks the line, beamed afterward, "Lots of things for Miami!") A tweed jacket, worn with skinny jeans and suede Birkenstock-like sandals, got its hourglass waist from crunched-in gathers. David turned despair into the swirling teardrop-tattoo print on airy georgette blouses and knotted scarves. Ideas about displacement and tremors led to the shifted lapel (evidence of a clever and skilled tailor) on a sugary pink wallpaper-print blazer, and the random little patches of herringbone that interrupted the uniform pattern on a gingham shirt.
Though subtle, it's those details that make David, an utter fabric wonk, stand apart from any other Tom, Dick, or Henrik sewing up a billowy anorak. The best part of his show is heading backstage to study at close range the fabrics he spends two months each season developing exclusively for his label with a mill in Ichinomiya. This time it was a gorgeous, lightweight double-faced denim jacquard, cut into a little blazer and sleeveless trench with finished seams that you imagine will fly off Dubreuil's racks, and that blink-and-miss-it but very cool gingham. David is no copyist, but his thoughtful and highly original approach to street wear recalls Junya Watanabe. He might just be getting started, but you'd be smart to watch this space.
See all from Julien David › Timeline
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
Uniqueness United Bamboo -
V
-
W
Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
