Julian Louie
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 14, 2011
By Alison Baenen
Collage is a recurring theme in Julian Louie's work, and this season he turned exclusively to piecework. A dress in silk tassar—more grain and less sheen than regular silk—had a color-blocked top and a pleated taffeta skirt in bands of contrasting shades. With its dropped waist emphasized by the shift in fabrics and colors, it looked a bit like a very awesome tennis dress. Lush florals were another part of the story, and Louie developed his prints by manipulating photos he'd taken at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Sure, they'd been Photoshopped, but you wouldn't think something so wild could grow in the metropolis. Spliced up and patched in next to one another, the grasses and magnified petals had a palpable energy; they looked ready to burst out of the linear shifts and T-shirt dresses Louie had contained them in. Cloglike wedges (not suitable for gardening), some in the same floral print, were the result of another collaboration with Aldo; if they prove as popular as last Spring's ikat wedges, we imagine both designer and shoe retailer will be pleased. And for Louie's customer? There are standout dresses and cool separates here to make her happy. Though similar, each of these 15 looks packs a pretty punch.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Uniqueness United Bamboo -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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