"I wanted it to look like a dream, a fantasy, a fairy tale," Jill Stuart said backstage after her runway show today. Her Spring collection was filled with cotton-candy pastels: bubblegum pinks, powder blues, lemony yellows. We've come to expect this kind of sweet assortment from her over the years. True to form, there were plenty of charming scallop hemlines, organza slipdresses, and darling prints (palm trees, polka dots, birds, and, if you looked closely enough, even a few Sailor Moon-esque cartoon dolls).

What was fresh for Stuart was her experimentation with texture, which was inspired by the Danish artist Evren Tekinoktay's bold, layered collages. Heavy silk jackets and dresses had a puckered, coverlet appearance; and newcomer model-to-watch Karo Mrozkova worked a snug, popcorn-knit sweater to perfection. Ruby Aldridge's two looks were some of the best in show (but then again, Ruby can make just about anything look cool). For her first runway turn, she sported a quilted, color-blocked patchwork blazer; and for her second, a blush-colored shorts suit paired with an aqua-trim Peter Pan blouse. At times, Stuart's clothes can be a tad twee. But the right girl—say, Jaime King, who dazzled in the front row this morning (wearing Jill Stuart, of course)—brings out the sexy-sweet side of her designs.