Josie Natori has 35 years in the lingerie business, so if she's in no rush to push into clothing, you can chalk it up to her veteran instincts. After two years building out her contemporary line, she was ready to present the collection for the first time at the Asia Society. "I'm always in that East-West mood," the designer said. "I was thinking Indochine and all its colors. I've been to Vietnam a couple of times, and I've always liked the aesthetic there. Something about the mix of the French influence—it's sexy."

Natori prefers a covered-up kind of sexual intrigue. She was deft with matte jerseys and draped them into floor-sweeping dresses in key lime and burnt orange. No cleavage (that's presumably for her namesake bra line), but you could discern the curves. Women who prefer a bit more structure could find tailored pieces, including a polished, light russet raffia mandarin-collar jacket and matching full, pleated skirt. Some of the dresses, especially in taupe, needed more work as they veered too close to fancy spawear, but they were generally approachable. And unlike at many of the frippery-laden contemporary labels, these designs were aiming for an older audience—a welcome change.