October 11, 2011 London
The danger reviewing Joseph's collections, at least since the brand has been under the creative supervision of Louise Trotter, is that you're tempted to hunt for negative things to say, just to keep things interesting. Well, here goes: This season's collection, which riffs on military garb and old Katharine Hamnett, isn't quite the tour de force that Joseph's Resort collection was. It's a shame to see the brand back away from print, for one thing; on the other hand, Trotter's decision to emphasize neutrals now puts Joseph in fine, one-step-ahead company, alongside The Row and Givenchy. Not much of a complaint, really.
Better just to give up and acknowledge what's good here: slick, lightweight parkas with neon piping, kimono-tied military-style tunics and shirtdresses, a chic evening jumpsuit with a wave of silk floating off the collar. And also, typically, lots of no-brainer shirts and trousers with modern, sporty silhouettes and a dressed-up mien. On-target business as usual, in other words.