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Jean-Pierre Braganza

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LONDON, September 16, 2011
By Maya Singer
There was a geometric clarity to Jean-Pierre Braganza's show. Starting with his very first look—a simple shift dress with a hexagonal hemline and well-judged, Deco-inspired studding—Braganza announced an intention to be direct this season and followed through with a collection that was clean and accessible.

The clothes were also very adult. A pale yellow suit comprising lean boot-leg trousers and a sharp-shouldered collarless jacket wouldn't look out of place in a boardroom; ditto Braganza's graphic, off-white and black shift dress with sculpted sleeves. Dressier looks such as a figure-hugging tank dress in a red crystal print and a halterneck tangerine jumpsuit were more youthful but still sophisticated. You could imagine a lot of different kinds of women wearing these pieces, in a lot of different ways. Even when Braganza was more specific, as in a cutout tangerine and black cocktail dress, you didn't get the sense that he was designing with only the model-sized in mind. There were some weak looks here, but in general, Braganza found the right balance of edge and realism.

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