Jonathan Saunders Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review

Jonathan Saunders

LONDON, September 17, 2011

By Tim Blanks

Courtesy of reality TV, the Housewife has become a totem of contemporary pop culture. Jonathan Saunders returned his version to her heyday, with a mesmerizing collection that was strongly inflected by the Eisenhower years. Then he unhinged her, stranding her in Miami, much deeper into the valley of the dolls than Mad Men's January Jones. Maybe this was her kid sister July, with a flick of black eye liner and a slightly bouffant-ed ponytail to broadcast her bad-girl credentials.

Saunders' starting point, he claimed backstage, was his palette: the sugary shades of South Beach. The peach of a sunset, the aqua of a pool, the colors of citrus fruits were layered together in combinations that should have clashed except that they were rendered in the same sun-drenched, often ombréd tones, like the pink and orange skirt that was topped by a jacket the blue of a Miami sky. "The colors of pills," Saunders laughed.

True, the soundtrack had a torpid, narcotic buzz that went nicely with the notion of a zonked suburban Southern gal. But she wasn't really the star of this show. Instead, it was more about Saunders continuing to explore his fascination with the tension between the prim and the improper in womenswear. Though the word stuck in his craw, he insisted he was in search of "the ultra-feminine." His shapes were sundresses, negligees, camisoles, pinafores, pajamas, or conversely, boyfriend jackets and full skirts that fell, fifties prom-style, to just below the knee. The fabrics—pin-dotted cottons and jacquards and silks—were equally traditional ("old-fashioned" was the term he used). The prints, on the other hand, were mandala-complex and "fancy" (again, his word). Or they were baroque dévorélike swirls, which brought to mind the work of Morris Lapidus, architect of the Miami that Frank Sinatra's Rat Pack was so enamored of (and would have recognized in these clothes). One decorous version, in yellow curlicues, turned to reveal a back slit open to a little bow at the base of the spine. It was a small, controlled gesture that was supremely sexy. Equally so: a slightly oversize sweater slung over a slightly sheer skirt. Such moments suggested Saunders is most comfortable with sly impropriety. The primness of the virginal white closers literally paled by comparison.

But, restrained or racy, the key thing is the ever-more-accomplished craft with which Saunders is pursuing his vision. And it's connecting—the audience for tonight's show was full of women wearing his Fall collection.

See all from Jonathan Saunders › Timeline

A.F. Vandevorst	A.L.C.	Acne
ADAM	A Détacher	Akris
Alberta Ferretti	Albino	Alexander McQueen
Alexander Wang	Alexandre Herchcovitch	Alexandre Plokhov
Alexis Mabille	Alice + Olivia	Altuzarra
Andrew Gn	Anna Sui	Ann Demeulemeester
Anne Valérie Hash	Ann-Sofie Back Atelje	Anthony Vaccarello
Antonio Berardi	Antonio Marras	Aquascutum
Aquilano.Rimondi	Araks	Azzaro

Badgley Mischka	Balenciaga	Bally
Balmain	Banana Republic	Band of Outsiders
Barbara Bui	Barbara Tfank	Basso & Brooke
BCBG Max Azria	Bebe	Betsey Johnson
Bibhu Mohapatra	Bill Blass	Billy Reid
Blumarine	Bottega Veneta	Brood
Burberry Prorsum

Cacharel	Calla	Calvin Klein Collection
Camilla and Marc	Carlos Miele	Carolina Herrera
Carven	Celine	Chado Ralph Rucci
Chadwick Bell	Chalayan	Chanel
Charlotte Ronson	Chloé	Chris Benz
Christian Cota	Christian Dior	Christian Siriano
Christophe Lemaire	Christopher Kane	Christopher Raeburn
Clements Ribeiro	Collette Dinnigan	Comme des Garçons
Commuun	Costello Tagliapietra	Costume National
Creatures of the Wind	Cushnie et Ochs	Custo Barcelona
Cynthia Rowley	Cynthia Steffe

D&G	Damir Doma	Danielle Scutt
Daryl K	David Koma	Dennis Basso
Derek Lam	Diane von Furstenberg	Diesel Black Gold
DKNY	Dolce & Gabbana	Donna Karan
Doo.Ri	Douglas Hannant	Dries Van Noten
Dsquared²	Duro Olowu

Edun	Elie Saab	Elie Tahari
Emanuel Ungaro	Emilio de la Morena	Emilio Pucci
Emporio Armani	Erdem	Erin Fetherston
Etro