What is sexy? It's increasingly impossible to evaluate a Kevork Kiledjian collection without bumping into this question. As Kiledjian himself would be the first to tell you, "sexy" is what he does. But is it? A skintight strapless leather dress, with hemline hovering around the top of the thigh, might be overt, but is that truly sexy? What about a cleavage-baring handkerchief dress with a lattice of lacing up each side? In general, Kiledjian's take on sex is about as subtle as that of one of those cartoon cavemen who clubs women in the head and then drags them off by their hair. Where's the wit, the seduction?

The real problem here is that in Kiledjian's collections, "sexy" substitutes for point of view. He has the nuts and bolts of a good luxury brand here—his cuts are fantastic, the quality of the materials and finishing are impeccable, and he has a great team that helps him execute his designs. And he's not short on good items, such as a white leather bomber vest, or on good ideas, like this season's hot pink and olive wallpaper floral print, which was used effectively in quite a few pieces, such as a pair of wispy pajama pants. But it's hard to figure out how this collection fits together. What story is it telling? Who is it for? Just when you think the answers to those questions are emerging, an ultrashort, ultra-tight dress crisscrossed with see-through lace insets arrives on the runway, clubs you over the head, and tries to drag you off by your hair.