September 07, 2011 New York
The real problem here is that in Kiledjian's collections, "sexy" substitutes for point of view. He has the nuts and bolts of a good luxury brand here—his cuts are fantastic, the quality of the materials and finishing are impeccable, and he has a great team that helps him execute his designs. And he's not short on good items, such as a white leather bomber vest, or on good ideas, like this season's hot pink and olive wallpaper floral print, which was used effectively in quite a few pieces, such as a pair of wispy pajama pants. But it's hard to figure out how this collection fits together. What story is it telling? Who is it for? Just when you think the answers to those questions are emerging, an ultrashort, ultra-tight dress crisscrossed with see-through lace insets arrives on the runway, clubs you over the head, and tries to drag you off by your hair.