Libertine designer Johnson Hartig likes to subvert expectations. At a fashion show, the expectation is that you're going to see stony-faced models stomping apace down the runway; at tonight's Libertine presentation, the models grinned, skipped, hugged each other, carried drinks on the catwalk, and pretty much looked like they were having a ball. It was a nice change of pace.

The attitude suited the new Libertine collection, inasmuch as its organizing principle seemed to be Hartig's manic zeal for screen-printing things: A-line coats, a sequin suit, clutch bags, underpants. Unlike Libertine's Fall 2011 outing, which boasted lots of dazzling color, this collection hewed to black and white, though the vintage influence was still strong. Screens of circles, jagged stripes, and Marimekko-esque florals were applied to a wide variety of women's vintage clothes, ranging in date from the twenties to the seventies. The men's looks were signature Libertine, almost all of them a version of the designer's favored long/short boxy-jacket suit silhouette. Hartig did have one definite winner at the show: a T-shirt printed simply with the request, "Tax the Rich More."