Limi Feu
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 28, 2011
By Tim Blanks
The world of Blade Runner is not quite upon us yet, but to tide us over we've got Tokyo's tribalism. All those kids strolling around Harajuku dressed as creatures from their fantasies—it's a perfect fashion paradigm. Limi Feu designer Limi Yamamoto has brought a refined version of Tokyo's reinventive impulse to Paris before, but never more so than with today's show. Inspired by the Irish performer Imelda May, Yamamoto filtered a quiff-cum-ponytailed, red-lipped, tattooed rockabilly babe through her own avant-garde fashion heritage. The result was something a lot more rockin' than you'd usually find in the often cerebral-to-a-fault Japanese design sorority.For a start, Limi Feu's invitations featured star-shaped pasties. Once more with feeling—star-shaped pasties! Whatever they promised never quite materialized on the catwalk, but there was a flashiness that felt new for Limi. The striped tailcoat over a stretch dress over capris, the white dotted net dress layered over a froth of black tulle, the dévoré beaded top over black pants: Any of them would look mighty fine on rockabilly royalty. And Yamamoto went a step further with a black-and-white group that suggested nothing less than the cocktail party her rockabilly princess' parents might throw while their girl was out on the tiles. A dress was elegantly dissected down its front, a skirt slit up its back with equal grace. Meanwhile, the designer herself was wearing a T-shirt that declared her allegiance to the Misfits Fiend Club. Her boss wasn't happy, said Yamamoto, because it wasn't one of her own shirts. Rebel to the end, you might assume, except she also paraded a banner inviting the world's "genius doctors" to help guarantee Japan's kids a future. In the light of the disaster that still threatens her country, that seems like the least a responsible citizen should do.
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Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Fashion Fringe Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesc by Frank Tell Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gabrielle Greiss Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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