"I was thinking about sensuality," Raul Melgoza said backstage before his show. That, combined with a summer cruise on the Mediterranean, meant a more relaxed silhouette than the structured seaming the designer is known for.

Abandoning lines for curves and experimenting with draping, Melgoza exposed shoulders, showed off bare backs, and dotted the sides of skirts and pants with buttons you could undo high or fasten low. Knotted head scarves and turbans lent the show a breezy, nautical touch.

The collection worked best when aiming for easy sexiness. A royal blue chiffon point d'esprit off-the-shoulder dress showed just enough skin. Next to it, the few embellished looks, like a white halter dress with a clavicle-exposing cutout and sheer, sequined sleeves, felt clunky. The most sensual piece may have been the easiest of all: a sheer, black, ombré knit caftan, worn over silk satin pants.