There's always been a very simple way to distinguish between Marc Jacobs' collections: His signature line was thought; his secondary line was felt. Where the first reflected his fashion fantasies, the second was all about a life he'd once lived. But obviously, the latter well of inspiration can only last so long before it catches up with the calendar, so today's show was an object lesson in moving on.

MxM's spirit used to be shaped by the sense of college/Mudd Club kids in vintage, but that was shot to hell tonight by the opening salvo of neon: for girls, a bright orange shift; for boys, a suit in hazmat orange. That particular shade insinuated itself throughout the show to great effect, tripping up outfits that otherwise would have been quite conventional. But that is the peculiar talent of Jacobs: to warp the familiar in a way that is utterly seductive. His secret may be a sense of play, evident here in items like (for her) a strappy navy jumpsuit and (for him) a hot pink suit.

Compared to past collections, there was more color and construction here, highlighted by show notes that referred to architectural-art way stations like Bauhaus, Charles Eames, and Donald Judd's Marfa. The references might have been scattergun, but if that's what the designer was offering us, it was only respectful to pay attention. And, fortunately, Jacobs always seems to reward it, with—this time—sensational footwear, to boot.